“Slow it Down, Spread it Out, Soak it In”

By Stacey Wildberger

In the Cape Conservation Corps stated vision for our community we envision the elimination of “destructive storm water runoff and erosion from properties”.  One of the tools to accomplish this goal is Rain Gardens.  By controlling storm water we can improve the health of our local waterways by “slowing it down, spreading it out and soaking it in” –which is what a rain garden does. The purpose of a rain garden is to reduce storm water runoff, remove pollutants, create pollinator habitat and offer an attractive landscape feature.

What is a rain garden?  It is a shallow depression in the landscape that collects runoff from rooftops, driveways, and the yard. A rain garden is graded as a shallow depression as opposed to a typical landscaped area that is raised several inches.  A simple explanation is that it is a sunken garden filled with plants that are adapted to wet conditions.

A primary component of a rain garden is a filter bed, which allows the runoff to soak into the ground slowly and spread it out.  The filter can be assembled on site as a mixture of sand, soil, and organic material topped with mulch and heavily planted with native, moisture-loving plants.  It can also use the existing on-site soil if it percolates properly.

The plants in the rain garden should be able to withstand very wet to sometimes dry conditions because during a storm, rain water will collect 4-12” above the mulch layer before it filters into the soil (typically in 1-2 days).  During times of drought it can become drier.  The plants inside the rain garden basin should be able to tolerate wet feet while plants on the outer edges or berms will be plants that do not like it that wet.

Rain gardens can range from the simple design for the home landscape to moderate design suitable for a small business with several parking spots and a larger rood surface than a residence, to a more complex rain garden for commercial and industrial buildings with larger parking lots, rooftops and other impervious surfaces.

We will talk about the simple rain garden that you may want to consider for your home landscape.  The typical size for a home rain garden is 60-180 square feet in area to treat runoff from your home roof, driveway and yard areas, with a total drainage area of ¼ acre (10,000 sq. feet) or less – the size of an average Cape lot.  The water will enter from gutter downspouts or as sheet flow into the rain garden.  You can hire a qualified landscape designer and contractor who has had experience designing and installing rain gardens and then you, as the homeowner, can install the native plants and mulch and maintain the garden.

Any good landscape feature should have a suitable maintenance plan, especially in the early months of establishing the garden.  The maintenance will decrease once the rain garden has been firmly established (within 2-3 years) but it will require a few tune ups along the way.  During the first couple of months the plants will need to be watered as needed (less frequently if Mother Nature provides).  You may experience about 10% failure rate of the plants so plan on replacing them as needed. During the first 6 months and periodically afterwards you will want to check and replace eroded areas, check in inlets and overflow areas for debris or leaves that may be blocking them.

In late spring you can check over the plants for damage that may have occurred over the winter, add mulch if your plants have not filled in to create their own green mulch layer.  The perennials stems can also be cut back (remember we left them standing over the winter to allow our beneficial bugs a place to hide).  Remember one of the benefits to a rain garden is the habitat it provides pollinators. It is important to note that those plants we left standing all winter ARE NOT DEAD they are DORMANT and they are doing their job of providing a place for insects to overwinter.  Do not make the mistake of assuming they didn’t survive and rip them out.  You will have just set your rain garden value back to zero.  The roots that have been setting down growth under the soil will have been wasted.  Plants that took 2-3 years to establish these deep roots will be replaced with new plants that will have to start all over again.  You may need to edit some plants, or add additional plants but most is salvageable and just needs to be given the chance to grow when spring comes.

A few fall chores include adding to plants to increase density (the more plants the better!), prune shrubs as needed, thin (and share) excessive herbaceous plants and remove the excess (but not totally) the leaf matter. Finally, you should remove invasive weeds, dead or diseased plants, stabilize bare areas and remove any debris/trash that accumulates on an as needed and ongoing basis .

Rain gardens can not only control runoff and clean water before it re-enters the waterways but it can provided a beautiful landscape feature that benefits pollinators by creating habitat, providing food sources, and host plants for their young. If you are considering adding a rain garden to your home landscape please visit the following website to get more detailed information.

And then email at to nominate you and your new rain garden as the next Habitat Hero!

A Second Look at Green Mulch – Combat Plants with Plants

By: Stacey Wildberger

As Spring is upon us and we are anxious to get out in our gardens to see what is popping up and making plans for what new plants we can add this year, let’s talk about an often forgotten layer in your landscape – the groundcover or Green Mulch Layer.  I have written about it in previous posts but I think it is important enough to discuss again. So many times we plan a new garden bed, stick a few plants in the ground and then surround it with mulch -brown wood chips or even worse dyed wood chips.  The plants are like little islands in a sea of mulch; never allowed to touch one another or socialize.  Plants are social organisms that desire the companionship of their plants friends, even more than that, they depend on it for communication.

As Spring is upon us and we are anxious to get out in our gardens to see what is popping up and making plans for what new plants we can add this year, let’s talk about an often forgotten layer in your landscape – the groundcover or Green Mulch Layer.  I have written about it in previous posts but I think it is important enough to discuss again. So many times we plan a new garden bed, stick a few plants in the ground and then surround it with mulch -brown wood chips or even worse dyed wood chips.  The plants are like little islands in a sea of mulch; never allowed to touch one another or socialize.  Plants are social organisms that desire the companionship of their plants friends, even more than that, they depend on it for communication.

Plantain-leaved pussytoes – Canadian wildginger

My first suggestion is to ignore those plant tags “spacing requirements” and plant them closer together.  A good rule of thumb is 12” apart (although I have been known to go even a little closer). The plants will be much happier as they can transmit beneficial information to each other, sharing information and resources such as “insects are attacking me”.  Another disadvantage to these mulch seas or beds is by leaving all that open space you are susceptible to weeds coming in and taking over, increasing your maintenance — nobody wants to spend time pulling weeds! If you plant more densely, and use groundcovers to fill in the bare spots you will save a lot of time.

Creek sedge – Pennsylvania sedge

By layering your plants in varying heights and structures you will begin to create more habitat, attracting natural predators to control the pests.  You will begin to build an ecosystem that is not only attractive to our eye but to nature as well. Your garden will morph over time, the early established plants will out compete the weeds early on and will gradually allow the slower plants to take over.  A few simple edits along the way will allow you to maintain an aesthetically pleasing garden.

Robin’s plantain – Appalachan barren strawberry

There are many plants that can be used as green mulch or groundcover and will suppress weeds, cover the ground and add interest to an otherwise barren sea of mulch.  By using plants as mulch you will also be increasing the sources of pollen and nectar needed for a dwindling number of insects.  These plants will spread by seed, rhizomes or both.  Because they are quick to establish, low maintenance and have a low growth height they are the perfect choice for green mulching.

Purple-leaved loosestrife – Allegheny pachysandra

Below is a partial list that North Creek Nurseries recommended for green mulch, which are also favorites of mine, plus a few of my own suggestions.

  1. Antennaria plantaginifolia – Plantain-leaved pussytoes – Light: full sun to part shade | Soil: lean to moderate fertility, dry to average moisture | Height: 6-12″
  2. Asarum canadense – Canadian wildgingerLight: part shade to full shade | Soil: moderate fertility, slightly dry to moist moisture | Height: 6-12″
  3. Carex amphibola – Creek sedge – Light: full sun to full shade | Soil: moderate fertility, dry to average moisture | Height: 8-12″
  4. Carex pensylvanica  – Pennsylvania sedgeLight: part sun to full shade | Soil: moderate fertility, dry to average moisture | Height: 8-10″
  5. Erigeron pulchellus var. pulchellus ‘Lynnhaven Carpet’  Robin’s plantain – Light: full sun to full shade | Soil: lean to moderate fertility, dry to moist moisture | Height: 6-12″ (foliage)
  6. Waldsteinia fragaroides – Appalachian barren strawberryLight: full sun to full shade | Soil: lean to moderate fertility, dry to moist moisture | Height: 3-6″
  7. Lysimachia lanceolata var. purpurea – Purple lance-leaved loosestrife Light: full sun to part shade | Soil: lean to moderate fertility, average to moist moisture | Height: 12-24″
  8. Pachysandra procumbens – Allegheny pachysandraLight: part sun to full shade | Soil: moderate fertility, average to moist moisture | Height: 6-10″
  9. Packera aurea – Golden ragwortLight: full sun to full shade | Soil: lean to moderate fertility, average to moist moisture | Height: 6-12″
  10.  Packera obovata – Roundleaf ragwort – Light: full sun to full shade | Soil: lean to moderate fertility, dry to moist moisture | Height: 6-12″
  11. Chrysogonum virginianum – Green and gold – Light: part shade | Soil: Moist but well drained, to drier soils | Height: 6-8”

In addition to reducing weeds in your garden, using these groundcovers can offer additional benefits in the natural areas of our community.  Author Nancy Lawson, “The Humane Gardener” discovered by accident that Packera aurea Golden ragwort could be used to combat the dreaded invasive Alliaria petiolata Garlic mustard.  Some forgotten pots were left under a tree, they escaped the pot and began to choke out the garlic mustard.  What better way to rid an area of an invasive plant than by planting a native one. 

Golden ragwort – Roundleaf ragwort

Garlic mustard is a problem is many of the roadside ravines and natural areas in our community so we have decided to put Nancy’s findings to the test.  We will be planting 200 plus of Packera aurea in the Ravine leading to Lake Claire on April 6th.  We will plant 10-12 plants in 5-ft circles where the garlic mustard is most prolific and see if it can smother the garlic mustard growing there.  We will not be pulling or digging the invasive plant so we can minimize soil disturbance and leave the seed bank buried! In addition to the 200 plugs at the Ravine we will plant another 100 plants as a green mulch layer at the Little Magothy Rain Garden on the same day.  We are hoping to suppress the weeds that continue to cause problems.  If you are interested in helping please contact me at Great for Scouts, NJHS or NHS hours or just because! 

Green and gold – also see top photo

For more information on Green Mulch and other great gardening ideas please check out the following resources:

  1. Nancy Lawson, author of “The Humane Gardener” and wildlife blogger. Her website is and her book can be found @ Amazon
  2. Benjamin Vogt, author of “A New Garden Ethic: Cultivating Defiant Compassion for an Uncertain Future” and blogger. His website can be found at and his book is available through Amazon
  3. And finally check out Thomas Rainer and Claudia West’s book “Planting in a Post-Wild World” for a great description of green mulch and groundcover layer.

Preparing Your Site for a Successful Garden

By: Stacey Wildberger

Preparing an area to install a new garden is an important step that must be done with care and consideration. The site needs to be clear of all existing vegetation in order to minimize weed growth.  How you prepare the site will affect the environment and the success of your garden.  There are many weed seeds hidden in the soil.   Once the soil is disturbed and the seeds are exposed to sunlight, they will quickly sprout and take over the area making establishing your plants more difficult.  One of the worst things you can do is till the area as this will quickly bring dormant seeds to the surface.

We will examine four methods to prepare your site to minimize disturbance and be safe for the environment.  Even though synthetic herbicides such as Round-Up are effective and cheaper than organic herbicides their long term effects can be devastating to the ecosystem.  The process of site preparation should not be rushed; don’t be in a hurry to plant or sow your seeds.  The better prepared your site is the less time you will spend controlling weeds in the garden down the road.

Smother method is the process of using organic material to kill the vegetation.  You will need some basic tools such as a wheelbarrow, mower, shovel and rake in addition to newspaper, cardboard, organic product and mulch.  Start by mowing the area in the design you wish the garden to be, cover with 4-5 layers of newspaper, then 1 layer of cardboard, spread weed free mulch over the top and level it off.  The next step is the hardest-let it sit for 3-12 months! I like to either start the process in early spring and plant in the fall or prep in the fall for spring planting.  Once you are ready to start planting, cut a slit in the cardboard and newspaper if it is not fully decomposed and plant directly into the hole you formed.  Tip: do not use plastics or other non-organic materials that will not decompose over time or add nutrients to the soil.  They can also generate too much heat, killing the good soil organisms. To speed up this process you could spray the area with a non-synthetic natural herbicide prior to layering the newspaper.

Strip method involves removing the vegetation, including the roots with a sod cutter or hand tools.  This method can be a little costlier if you need to rent the tools but it allows you to remove a large area of vegetation quickly.  The composted sod becomes rich soil that can be used in other areas as well.  Start by defining the shape of your bed using a garden hose, paint or flags then strip the vegetation in your area with the sod cutter to remove it—composting it. Apply a natural herbicide to any new growth.  Tip: you can use the smother method to prevent the re-growth if you are plating plugs or plants, not seeds.

Spray method uses non-synthetic, natural herbicides to kill the vegetation.  You will need a tank sprayer, safety glasses, gloves, dust mask, spreader and a chemical safe measuring cup as well as Colorant, blood or alfalfa meal, water and herbicide.  There are several benefits to this method, including being able to cover a large area, and when used on slopes it can diminish erosion.  The negatives are cost (a concentrate can save you money), and you may have to apply up to 6 applications and it still won’t kill certain vegetation, including woody plants.  Once again stake your design, mix the concentrate with water, mixing only what you will need for the measured area, spray evenly and repeat until all vegetation is killed off.  Now you can plant! Examples of natural herbicides are Burnout, Matran, Scythe, and Natures’s Avenger.

Speed is the final method; it involves stop mowing and plant directly into the lawn.  With a few simple steps to avoid soil disturbance you can begin planting immediately with this low cost, environmentally friendly method. This method works great if you are trying to establish a meadow. Select your plants, dig a hole about twice the diameter of the pot, shake off the loose dirt, place the plant in the hole and fill it with the soil from the area.  There is no need to amend the soil if you are choosing native plants, they do not need it!  All it will do is encourage strong growth of the weeds. Right plant, right place.  You can mulch deeply around the plants in the beginning until the plants begin to establish themselves and grow together to form “green mulch”.

As always, I encourage you to choose native plants to add to your newly established gardens as the local fauna has co-evolved with these native plants over thousands of years and they depend on each other for their survival.  You may see native pollinators on a non-native plant but many times it is not getting everything it needs nutritionally from that plant—like when we eat ice cream and other junk foods.  Your landscape can provide two things living creatures need, food source and a place to live, make it the best environment for them to not only survive but thrive in.  Please choose the best plants for this-Native Plants.

If you begin your site prep this spring it will be ready for fall planting.  You can stop by Cape Conservation Corps annual Fall Plant Fest for a great selection of native plants at low prices and speak to the many experts we will have on hand to answer your questions.  Happy Planting!

A True Winter Habitat Hero

By Stacey Wildberger

Our fourth Habitat Hero winner is Bill Rappoport, a Cape Conservation Corps board member and active volunteer with CCC.  Bill has spent the better part of 2018 installing a Milkweed Garden and converting his yard to native plants.  In addition to the many pollinator friendly native plants he has included several species of native milkweed.  Milkweed is he host plant for Monarch caterpillars, meaning they can only lay their eggs on milkweed as that is what the caterpillars eat when they hatch.

When the time came for “fall clean-up” Bill took what I call the Lazy Gardener approach and left the stems standing throughout his garden.  By leaving the stems he is allowing insects to safely overwinter in the pith of the stalks. This spring, the later the better, Bill will cut the stems back but leave 12-18” still standing as many of them will still house those insects.  Once the garden begins to pop up and green out you will not even notice those stems but it will be noticeable to our beneficial bugs.  In time the stems will break down and add organic matter (natural mulch) to the garden.

Another “lazy gardener” trick Bill has done is to leave many of his fall leaves in place or rake them into garden areas.  The leaves also make a perfect winter home to insects.  You will often find birds picking through the leaves to make those insects a tasty meal.  If you are lucky enough it may attract a Northern Flicker to this backyard buffet!

A “messy” yard should not be viewed in a negative light, it actually provides the right habitat for so many of the creatures we want to attract: those that benefit our gardens. If we rake away all the leaves and cut back the stems we are disposing of next year’s butterflies and beneficial bugs.

Leaving areas of your yard untouched you will also be providing habitat or shelter for a variety of birds and other wildlife species.  A good compromise if you don’t want the “mess” in the front of the house is to tidy up your front gardens and leave the back as untouched as possible.  Let the leaves lie, the stalks stand and leave some undisturbed bare soil for our many ground nesting native bees.  If the plant material is diseased, remove it but if it is just dead let it decay naturally, adding nutrients to the soil as it does.

This spring when Bill goes back to work on his butterfly garden he will be richly rewarded by his lazy approach to gardening.  He will have preserved the larvae, egg masses, hibernating bees, dormant spiders and loads of other hibernating insects. These beneficial bugs will emerge in his garden ready to pollinate his plants, destroy garden pests, nourish the baby birds and provide months of enjoyment as they flit among his native plants.

The following plants are just a few examples of plants that offer winter beauty in any garden:

  • Blue Wild Indigo Baptisia australis the large billowy seed heads make a striking winter view
  • Joe-Pye Weed Eutrochium spp. They hold their wrinkly leaves atop their tall hollow stems giving the birds a place to perch as they enjoy the seed heads
  • Culver’s Root Veronicastrum virginicum birds will delight in the seeds found on this often spooky silhouette in the cold winter months
  • Ironweed Vernonia spp. This super tall plant makes a nice accent against the winter skies as it stands up strong in the face of wind
  • Goldenrod Solidago spp. There are many species available for a range of conditions with their fluffy seed heads that catch your eye
  • Coneflowers Echinacea spp. long after purple has faded the seed heads stand erect and nourish many songbirds, particularly goldfinches
  • Native Grasses and sedges amongst which so many have attractive foliage to add winter interest as well as habitat and food source for insects and birds.

Cape Conservation Corps Membership Drive

CCC is fortunate to have a strong group of volunteers who come out to support our restoration efforts of the natural areas of our community.  In order to continue our efforts of restoration we also rely on funding in the form of donations, grants and memberships collection.  Your annual $20 CCC membership goes to supporting our restoration projects.

Please consider renewing for 2019 or becoming a new member.  There are 2 east ways to join or re-new

Visit our website at and pay online or

Mail checks payable to Cape Conservation Corps 1223 River Bay Rd Annapolis MD 21409.  Please include your contact information (name/address/email/phone#)

Thank you for your continued support of our mission to ignite community pride in our native landscape through projects that promote stewardship, create healthy natural spaces and champion swimmable, fishable waterways.  We try to meet our vision through understanding our impact on the environment and quality in CSC, eliminating storm water runoff, controlling erosion, eradicating invasive plant species by replacing them with native plants.

Join us for a FREE EVENT

Identifying Native Bees with Sam Droege

Please mark your calendars for this remarkable lecture and stunning slides with Sam Droege on Friday March 22nd 7:00 PM (doors open 6:30 PM).  Sam is wildlife biologist at Patuxent Wildlife Research Center.  Sam will be talking to us about the importance of native bees in our ecosystem and how to identify and name these beneficial insects.  The pictures contained in the slide show are truly remarkable and not to be missed.

Light refreshments provided.  Please bring your own adult beverages.  Admission is free!

A Carex for Every Condition

By: Stacey Wildberger

Let’s keep talking about grasses.  In the last blog I discussed how grasses are often overlooked and underused in our landscapes and some of the benefits of using native grasses.  I would like to talk about a group of native grasses that has a species for just about every growing condition—Carex.  I touched on them briefly last month but let’s take a look at some Maryland Native Carex that will add texture and beauty to your gardens!


Carex pensylvanica Pennsylvania sedge is a low growing grass with a tough disposition and spreading habit that makes an excellent shade groundcover. This ½-1’ sedge prefers part- to full-shade with dry to medium moisture.  It can tolerate moisture so it could even be used in a rain garden in dappled sun.  The soft, delicate arching leaves provide wispy clumps that spread and naturalize your space.  If you are looking for a lawn alternative, something to work in those dry, shady spots of Cape St Claire, this is the sedge for you!



Carex albicans White-tinged sedge is another native grass that would work well in the Cape with its part shade to full shade, and low moisture requirements. It will tolerate dry and even drought conditions.  Albicans will spread through rhizomes and self-seeding.  The 5-20’’ tall clumps have narrow, upright-arching bright green blades and are typically up to 16” wide.  They work best when planted in mass for a full foliage effect and offer year round interest.  I have planted this around the base of some shrubs to fill in a as groundcover and control weeds.

Carex appalachia Appalachian sedge is one I have used to stabilize a slight slope in the back part of my yard that has shady and dry conditions.  This sedge grows in dense mounded tufts that sweep along the slope with its willowy foliage.  This ‘moisture challenged’ sedge is another one that can be used to replace lawn in your hard to grow areas.  Used as erosion control, as a ground cover, in a rock garden or low maintenance beds this sedge will also provide a nectar to native insects, seeds for birds, and as a host plant for several butterflies.




Another great choice for your landscapes is Carex amphibola Creek Sedge, this highly adaptable, shade tolerant grass prefers medium to moist, even wet soil.  Bright green mounds form attractive fountain-shaped clumps that can be very ornamental.  Use this sedge in shade gardens, rain gardens (can tolerate some sun if it stays moist), meadows and along streambanks.  It is deer resistant and a host plant for many skipper butterflies as well as food source for turtles (seed heads).


While we are still in the shady moist areas of the yard, let’s talk about Carex plantaginea Plantainleaf sedge. A 1-2’ tall sedge with red-purple at the base and bright green, broad evergreen leaves up to 1” across.  This stunning sedge prefers the shady, moist, rich woods areas.  I planted it in a wet spot of the yard this fall and cannot wait to see how it performs this coming year. With its bright foliage this would make an attractive ornamental plant but it offers wildlife benefits as well, it is a host plant to several woodland butterflies and the seeds are food source for woodland birds. This low maintenance plant will also add texture to shade gardens, act as a groundcover or a woodland trail border.


Carex grayi Grays sedge was one I found recently that work well in moist to wet shady conditions.  It forms slow spreading clumps with narrow shiny, upright semi-evergreen foliage.  The seed head forms a spiked club that turns green to a golden brown which makes for an interesting addition to the winter garden for year round enjoyment.


Carex glaucodea Blue wood sedge is another interesting clump forming ground cover that works in average to moist conditions in shade to part shade areas.  It can also tolerate some drought conditions. Blue wood sedge is typically found in wet woodlands or swampy grounds.  The evergreen foliage is a fine-textured, narrow grass-like blue-green leaf. This sedge would well in small group in a woodland garden, shade garden or rock garden and makes a lovely edging along a pathway or around a pond.


Carex lurida Lurid sedge has narrow bright yellow-green 1” leaves and grows up to 3’ tall when its “flower” stalk shoots up in the spring.  It thrives in sun to part sun in damp or wet areas making it a great addition to rain gardens and wet meadows.  This sedge works well planted in mass for erosion control, low maintenance gardens and wetland restoration areas.  This is another one with many wildlife benefits.  The Sedge Wren feeds and nests in large areas of wetland sedges, and it is the host plant for the Eyed Brown butterfly and several Skipper species and moths


Carex crinita fringed sedge works well in moist to wet up to standing water full sun so another great rain garden or pond addition or low lying areas of the yard.  It can even tolerate drier shady spots.  This short creeping evergreen sedge grows in dense clumps 2-3’ tall which sends up an arching flower in late spring.  Fringed sedge has similar wildlife benefits as the lurid sedge—another favorite nesting spot of the Sedge wren as well as a host for Eyed Brown butterfly, skippers and moths.



The emergent Carex stricta Tussock sedge is a favorite of mine around my pond.  This moisture, sun loving sedge forms colonies with underground rhizomes.  Its fountain like bright green foliage makes a beautiful addition to wetlands, bio-swales, and storm water projects.



And finally, Carex vulpinoidea fox sedge thrives in part to full sun wet areas.  This sedge is useful for wetland restoration, erosion control, storm water management and wildlife gardens.  The delicate arching foliage is mostly evergreen creating year round beauty in the landscape.  The seed and rising spike turn a deep brown color in autumn.

I hope you will consider using a Carex or two in your landscapes to add texture, color and movement to the garden.  Many of these sedges are beneficial to wildlife by providing both coverage, and food for birds or caterpillars.  The benefits to storm water management, erosion control and wetland restoration are also an important reason to use these beauties.

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